Tod’s x La Scala. Last fall Tod’s gave the Milanese ballet company a grant to fund its productions. This coincided with Tod’s release of a limited-edition ballet shoe and the short film above.
When I heard rumors that Derek Lam was leaving his post as Creative Director of Tod’s I thumped a ‘lil, and not in the good way. WWD confirms that after five years as Creative Director, Lam’s Fall 2012 collection for Tod’s would his last.
The greatest pleasure I got from my time at Tod’s (I worked in an office full of Italian men, so there were many pleasures) was digging through the racks of Lam’s latest confections. And confections they were. The integrity of the craftsmanship in each Tod’s creation is evident in even the smallest of trinkets. Imagine a simple leather jacket as a Land ‘O Lakes stick ‘a butta. Tod’s Ready-To-Wear is just that kinda goodness.
WWD points out that Lam’s departure suspiciously coincides with continued speculation that John Galliano is in talks with the Italian house to either do a Tod’s capsule collection or revamp its Schiaparelli brand. However, Tod’s Chairman, Chief Executive Officer, and Founder, Diego Della Valle has firmly dismissed these rumors. Is that ‘cause Galliano is a former fan of the sauce, or just ‘cause? Still, other reputable sources like Harper’s Bazaar UK report a similar tale, “Speculation is mounting that John Galliano may make his return to fashion by revamping the Tod’s’ Schiaparelli brand or may even lend his name to a capsule collection.”
Della Valle purchased the Schiaparelli trademark in 2007, and that’s Schiaparelli, as in Elsa Schiaparelli, the legendary Italian fashion designer and a foremother of modern sportswear. The Trademark was a predictable purchase for DDV who has relentlessly dedicated himself and Tod’s Group to the preservation of Italian heritage. But In 2009 WWD reported that DDV wouldn’t try to revive the house until at least 2011. Olivier Theyskens and Roland Mouret have both been rumored to be in the running for Creative Director, and in a 2010 New Yorker article Anna Wintour added her two sense to the mix, “The Mulleavys (Rodarte) are ripe for a house who might be looking for a designer. A place like Schiaparelli, which is just sitting there waiting for the economy to be better — I think they’d be perfect for that.”
And not even $700 loafers can hold ‘em back, ‘cause apparently, things sure are lookin’ up for DDV. The maker of Hogan and Roger Vivier footwear has advanced 32 percent this year, giving it a market value of 2.5 billion euros. Sales at stores open at least a year were reported to have climbed 7.1 percent on average in the first 11 weeks of 2012, and analyst estimates compiled by Bloomberg found that the company saw a profit profit of 130.8 million euros.
This surge in company value surely puts Tod’s in a place to move forward with Schiaparelli. In December, WWD talked to Della Valle and tried to get the scoop on the dormant label but unlike most of the Italians I know (if watching Real Housewives of New Jersey constitutes a place of ‘knowing’), he was not very chatty, only offering that “his company is working on the project but not ready to talk about it.” But in light of the Prada/Schiaparelli exhibit about to open at The Met, it seems like the perfect time to relaunch the iconic brand — pardon my Italiano Teresa Guidice, I meant “perfecto.”
DISCLAIMER: No table-flipping was involved in the making of this post.